In Fashion: Cultural Appropriation vs Inspiration
(This post & the one on Wicked Whimsy are a dual effort and meant to be read together, so go there and read hers too!)
Via himitsuhana on flickr, all rights reserved.
So, a few days ago, we were talking about the directions our styles are moving in (which seems to be a similar place!). To describe her style direction, Michelle used the phrase “steampunk Norse shaman” & I felt inspired by the phrase “modern vintage Voodoo Queen”. We found ourselves discussing the use of different cultures as inspiration for fashion, and where we need to draw the line between inspiration and cultural appropriation.
Michelle said:
This is a recurring problem in fashion and one of my pet peeves. I’ll never forget reading a blog entry (this was the last one I ever read on that blog!) where a non-native blogger gushed about how beautiful Navajo ceremonial dresses were and then said she’d love to own one and would pair it with moccasins for “that Indian look”. I don’t even think I need to snark on that, really…
“Voodoo Queen” is a bit more complicated. After thinking about it, the reason it doesn’t strike me as offensive is because it’s so fictionalized. I would hope most people would realize the myriad of differences between the sort of image that the phrase “Voodoo Queen” brings to mind, and an actual Voudou practitioner. One could argue that it being such a fictionalized stereotype makes it even more offensive (and it is important to note that the phrase has actually been used), but for some reason that’s not how it strikes me.
The line seems to be in using a phrase like “Voodoo Queen” (a stylized image based on a culture) as a jumping off point for inspiration, vs., say, going to a Voudou ritual and deciding that their sacred dress would be awesome to wear every day (cultural theft). One is okay, the other is definitely not.
I think there’s a definite line between cultural appropriation and using cultural inspiration. While I don’t find most cultural inspiration in fashion offensive because it’s expanding the borders of a country’s cultural fashion influence, it needs to be done with tact and a sort of honor. There’s a difference between wearing culturally inspired bangles with a summer maxi skirt and saying “I want to appropriate the ‘Indian’ feel, so I’m going to take your SACRED CEREMONIAL COSTUME and wear it with moccasins for an every-day look.” As a friend said to me, “You wouldn’t wear 16th century French dresses, either. Don’t be a douche. You know where the line is.”
There’s research, thinking that a culture is fascinating, and wanting to honor that through your look and then there’s not thinking and taking a cultural symbol outside it’s often “sacred” or respected realm. There’s appropriation and there’s inspiration.
In the sense of Voodoo Queen, I’ve done a lot of reading on Haiti in my French studies, and a lot of reading on New Orleans and it’s roots. In that, I’ve read quite a bit on Voudou/Voodoo – I think Marie Laveau was fascinating and the Haitian practice often combines and old cultural belief with the new Christian values that were taught to inhabitants. For me, it’s been a study of cultural belief, BUT as Michelle noted, it’s often a depiction of a practice and is widely used in popular culture. Disney’s Frog Prince featured voodoo as an explanation for why the prince was a frog; David Bowie sings “The babe with the power/ (what power?)/ The power of voodoo…” in Labyrinth; it’s featured in Interview with a Vampire as a practice among the household staff. It’s not often obvious whether or not these depictions are respectfully and tastefully done.
My inspiration builds more on my love of things macabre and strange, little rituals, a culmination of beliefs, mystery – including the mystery of being, celebration of an exceptional life, the collection and adornment of found trinkets, and the words “Voodoo Queen” as inspiration instead of “Voudou Priestess”. In that last part, especially, I feel like I would devalue their cultural experience by appropriating the priestess title, or any tenet of being that title. Context is everything and my inspiration is going to be tastefully portrayed…
A well done inspiration pays a sort of homage to something fascinating, instead of just saying “it’s pretty and I want to wear it to school tomorrow.” As Racialicious notes,
“I think it is wonderful to find inspiration in various cultures’ customs and traditions, especially when it comes to fashion, but there are far better ways to discuss said inspiration without patronizing, belittling, or oversimplifying said cultures.”
“It matters who is doing the appropriating. If a dominant culture fancies some random element (a mode of dress, a manner of speaking, a style of music) of my culture interesting or exotic, but otherwise disdains my being and seeks to marginalize me, it is surely an insult.”
Racialicious’s articles have a point – it’s the heady notion of borrowing this culture, if even “just for a day” without truly noting the significance of that culture. On Voodoo they say,
What’s so wrong with being inspired by another culture? I’m not sure how to answer, because borrowing from a historically oppressed culture is not as simple as some would want it to be. Fair or not, there are hundreds of years of meaning behind that faux African print dress, that Motown-inspired tune and the silent Harajuku posse. I haven’t even touched on the stickiness of appropriating religious items and culture. (With Halloween on the way, we’ll all have a great opportunity to witness all the ways Americans “pay homage to” the West African religion of Voudou.) For many people of color, it’s nearly impossible to unhook what the mainstream believes is harmless cultural borrowing from the broader experience and history of our people. “Harmless” is really in the eye of the beholder.
I think it’s important to stop and ask a few questions: Am I inspired? Or am I appropriating? Am I picking and choosing parts of a culture to honor, or am I respecting the people as a whole? In what context are you portraying these symbols?
On the other hand, in a world where globalization and cultural recognition are so important, why is there such a taboo on wanting inspiration from other cultures? As globalization meshes our cultural identities in a big “melting pot” scenario, there will be bands and designers who see what they do as an homage to a culture. Bellydance, for instance, is no longer just a sacred woman-centric power practice – women take bellydance workouts (in my experience, where you’re taught about the power behind dance). I think it boils down to your individual context and representation – but it’s important to know and respect the basis for your cultural borrowing.
From Michelle:
I’d add that if you’re going to be buying something particular to a culture, you should be buying it direct from the source. The money goes back into the community and you’re supporting independent craftspeople, all at the same time…
Of course, I’m not an expert and I’d love to hear your take on things – what do you think? Where’s the line?
And it’s a question that needs to be addressed in the fashion world. Is it going too far for designers to paint models in blackface? What if they’re borrowing ideas from cultural identity? Should a designer then ensure that their models include representation of the culture they borrow from? What are your thoughts?
29 Responses to “In Fashion: Cultural Appropriation vs Inspiration”
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Y’all are heavy…
I think in order to be respectful, there needs to be some sort of thought and or research put in to what one wants to appropriate. I’m one who loves a good story behind a piece, so (for me) being able to explain something, where it comes from, and what it represents would be paying my respect to the culture that I am appropriating. To say something is cute and I want to wear it because it’s cute…not so much.
As for the models in blackface thing…I can see both sides of the argument for its use (I mean…she didn’t look like Al Jolston), but because I am who I am where I am, I have to say that I was a bit off-put (especially for the reasons that Racialicious noted).
.-= Alicia´s last blog ..…reality/tv… =-.
I TOTALLY agree that “Voodoo Queen” is a different ballgame than “Voudou Priestess”, that one is ok and the other is not. I also really agree with “A well done inspiration pays a sort of homage to something fascinating, instead of just saying “it’s pretty and I want to wear it to school tomorrow”.”.
IMO, there’s a difference between designers and people on the street. I’ve almost NEVER seen a designer (or a magazine, like in photoshoots) sensitively/respectfully borrow or use elements of different cultures. I also think that it’s different in the “industry” because they want to use these different cultures for inspiration while only using white European or American models. Which is why the blackface thing was/is SO lame, since the industry continually refuses to acknowledge non-white models.
.-= Michelle´s last blog ..Marvelous Monday! =-.
Social comments and analytics for this post…
This post was mentioned on Twitter by jaka_merriman: RT @Birdiee: New at Bonne Vie: In Fashion: Cultural Appropriation vs Inspiration http://bit.ly/bfqVvp…
I really like how you and Michelle are approaching this topic! In fashion, when big name designers send their models down the runway in clothing that represents a culture, it’s kind of easy for me to tell which ones are doing it for a gimmicky reason and which ones are actually choosing to do it because it inspires them. I always feel that when it’s over the top, it’s just being point to as a way to appropriate a culture. Especially if the designer only uses this theme for one season and then moves on. Whereas if it’s a designer that uses subtlety and you are still able to see their own vision, plus they build upon that same theme/vision season after season, I can dig it. I think the same can be applied to how we dress as people. Many times it can be a very fine line, however, but I think there are ways to be aware.
.-= Sheena´s last blog ..Channeling Corinne Bailey Rae =-.
For me, it depends.
1. I wouldn’t touch or “bastardize” anything that is sacred to the culture.
2. I wouldn’t appropriate or feel inspired by anything that I don’t understand.
When the No Doubt fan phase was out of control and Gwen Stefani had that bindi in between her eyes, girls started wearing bindi stickers on their foreheads in school even though they had no idea what the significance of it was.
3. I don’t really mind it when people use items like cheongsams (Chinese dresses) or Saris (Indian dresses), or take inspiration from the culture. But to literally wear the costume is another ballgame.
Something has to change for me — it cannot be the exact replica, but maybe a DETAIL from the dresses can be taken such as the hook up by the neck for the cheongsam and the colours & beading on a sari.
As Sheena said, don’t make it a gimmick to sell your clothes or jump on the bandwagon.
4. I don’t particularly like anything very racially sensitive such as blackface. It brings up a lot of hurt, hatred and resentment. Why would anyone do that, even just to make a political statement or cause trouble? I know it’s controversial but that is going too far. It becomes less about the clothes and more about the ideology, which is nice.. but make your demonstration in a different, more diplomatic way.
Awesome posts. Great food for thought!
.-= FB @ FabulouslyBroke.com´s last blog ..January 2010 Budget Roundup =-.
[...] Bonne Vie – Cultural Appropriation vs Cultural Inspiration: What you borrow from another culture when it comes to wardrobe should be thoughtful [...]
[...] Bonne Vie – Cultural Appropriation vs Cultural Inspiration: What you borrow from another culture when it comes to wardrobe should be thoughtful [...]
[...] Bonne Vie – Cultural Appropriation vs Cultural Inspiration: What you borrow from another culture when it comes to wardrobe should be thoughtful [...]
[...] Bonne Vie – Cultural Appropriation vs Cultural Inspiration: What you borrow from another culture when it comes to wardrobe should be thoughtful [...]
[...] *a great post on cultural appropriation and a nuanced understanding of inspiration from Bonne Vie [...]
[...] Bonne Vie – Cultural Appropriation vs Cultural Inspiration: What you borrow from another culture when it comes to wardrobe should be thoughtful [...]
[...] Bonne Vie – Cultural Appropriation vs Cultural Inspiration: What you borrow from another culture when it comes to wardrobe should be thoughtful [...]
[...] Bonne Vie – Cultural Appropriation vs Cultural Inspiration: What you borrow from another culture when it comes to wardrobe should be thoughtful [...]
[...] Bonne Vie – Cultural Appropriation vs Cultural Inspiration: What you borrow from another culture when it comes to wardrobe should be thoughtful [...]
[...] Bonne Vie – Cultural Appropriation vs Cultural Inspiration: What you borrow from another culture when it comes to wardrobe should be thoughtful [...]
[...] Bonne Vie – Cultural Appropriation vs Cultural Inspiration: What you borrow from another culture when it comes to wardrobe should be thoughtful [...]
[...] Bonne Vie – Cultural Appropriation vs Cultural Inspiration [...]
[...] Bonne Vie – Cultural Appropriation vs Cultural Inspiration: What you borrow from another culture when it comes to wardrobe should be thoughtful [...]
Alex says: “sacred woman-centric power practice” and there you have it, something that irks me about bellydance in the Western world. That’s appropriation right there where Western women are led into the ‘exotic’ world of bellydance where they get to do sacred things like dance for their inner goddess to emulate ‘sacred temple dances’ or whatever woo-woo sounding hype. I’m a man, I bellydance not for performance or workout sure, but I do dance socially and I know quite a number who do too. Western dancers sometimes lump the ‘cane dance’ under bellydance and just use it as a prop to spice up their routine but forget that it is a dance that is predominately done by men among men.
Fact, Egyptian women don’t necessarily bare their bellies when they dance even when in an all-women party so all the woo-woo surrounding loving your body enough to bare your belly during a routine is completely full of poop. So what if there are bellydance workouts? The only form of exercise that my mother and aunts do is bellydance because they can’t stand the gym and mindless prancing about of aerobic dance routines.
When it comes to fashion, why can’t you be inspired by the items used and the colour scheme as opposed to adopting it all wholesale that it’s almost right away recognised as a Voodoo Queen thing or whatever? That is appropriation. If one were to be inspired by the rich colours of a sari and incorporate that into a piece of clothing that looks nothing like traditional Indian clothes, that’s fine. If you’re sending a model down the runway complete with bindis and peacock feather accessories and henna tattoos with the name of the show being “The Queens of India” along with some Indian-sounding music though it’s likely to be from another part of the world, THAT is appropriation.
@Alex – your comment is interesting, because I’ve taken bellydance classes and it wasn’t some sort of “woo-woo” bare belly women-centric practice, as you put it. It was more about learning your inner and outer dimension and how to control your body. The fact that you learn to control other parts of your life is merely a byproduct of learning how to control your body. That said, I didn’t wear gauzy little outfits and bare my midsection – we wore coin belts because you can hear the movement and we wore regular workout clothes. I think it’s less about baring a paunch and loving your body, and more about learning how to effectively isolate and use parts of your body.
As for the Fashion appropriation that we were talking about in the Voodoo Queen way, I have a bird skull from Talonalia that I incorporate into outfits, I love little baubles and clutter anyhow. I love the bright color schemes, but I don’t necessarily put them all together, slap on some blackface and head to work. I like the idea of mischief-magic, and I do note that a lot of the beliefs are rooted in the power of good things that come into your life which is what much of the Vodun belief is based on. There are certain forces that bring things into your life. Excellent. That’s not necessarily appropriation – it’s inspiration. I think I could wear a draped skirt in a sari-like fashion and if I wore it in an ethnically responsible way (as in, not wearing full sari, or some sacred pattern that’s used only in a ceremonial light) it would be more inspired and less appropriated.
[...] Bonne Vie – Cultural Appropriation vs Cultural Inspiration: What you borrow from another culture when it comes to wardrobe should be thoughtful [...]
[...] Bonne Vie – Cultural Appropriation vs Cultural Inspiration: What you borrow from another culture when it comes to wardrobe should be thoughtful [...]
[...] of Wicked Whimsy and I had this conversation a few months back and everything I read on this affirms our stance that when you’re going to [...]
[...] of Wicked Whimsy and I had this conversation a few months back and we affirmed our stance that when you’re going to borrow [...]
[...] Bonne Vie – Cultural Appropriation vs Cultural Inspiration: What you borrow from another culture when it comes to wardrobe should be thoughtful [...]
[...] post & the one on Birdie’s blog are a dual effort and meant to be read together, so go check out her’s too!) Via himitsuhana [...]
Love the art, Norse Shaman for the win haha! But yeah, Fashion inspiration can come from anything…although, sometimes it shouldn’t haha. But I completely think that if you find something that hits you, and says this could work, should be tried, if you don’t try you can’t fail, but you can’t succeed.
I find some of the new styles hard to understand, and so much of the styles by young people is dark and dreary, not happy and colorfull. However, I think using history to come up with new designs is really special. Sometimes things fromt he past are better than what we have today. Just my hunble opinion.
Y’all are heavy…
I think in order to be respectful, there needs to be some sort of thought and or research put in to what one wants to appropriate. I’m one who loves a good story behind a piece, so (for me) being able to explain something, where it comes from, and what it represents would be paying my respect to the culture that I am appropriating. To say something is cute and I want to wear it because it’s cute…not so much.
As for the models in blackface thing…I can see both sides of the argument for its use (I mean…she didn’t look like Al Jolston), but because I am who I am where I am, I have to say that I was a bit off-put (especially for the reasons that Racialicious noted).
.-= Alicia´s last blog ..…reality/tv… =-.
I TOTALLY agree that “Voodoo Queen” is a different ballgame than “Voudou Priestess”, that one is ok and the other is not. I also really agree with “A well done inspiration pays a sort of homage to something fascinating, instead of just saying “it’s pretty and I want to wear it to school tomorrow”.”.
IMO, there’s a difference between designers and people on the street. I’ve almost NEVER seen a designer (or a magazine, like in photoshoots) sensitively/respectfully borrow or use elements of different cultures. I also think that it’s different in the “industry” because they want to use these different cultures for inspiration while only using white European or American models. Which is why the blackface thing was/is SO lame, since the industry continually refuses to acknowledge non-white models.
.-= Michelle´s last blog ..Marvelous Monday! =-.
Social comments and analytics for this post…
This post was mentioned on Twitter by jaka_merriman: RT @Birdiee: New at Bonne Vie: In Fashion: Cultural Appropriation vs Inspiration http://bit.ly/bfqVvp…
I really like how you and Michelle are approaching this topic! In fashion, when big name designers send their models down the runway in clothing that represents a culture, it’s kind of easy for me to tell which ones are doing it for a gimmicky reason and which ones are actually choosing to do it because it inspires them. I always feel that when it’s over the top, it’s just being point to as a way to appropriate a culture. Especially if the designer only uses this theme for one season and then moves on. Whereas if it’s a designer that uses subtlety and you are still able to see their own vision, plus they build upon that same theme/vision season after season, I can dig it. I think the same can be applied to how we dress as people. Many times it can be a very fine line, however, but I think there are ways to be aware.
.-= Sheena´s last blog ..Channeling Corinne Bailey Rae =-.
@Sheena thanks! I think it’s an important subject to think about – especially as the world becomes a more globalized melting pot.
For me, it depends.
1. I wouldn’t touch or “bastardize” anything that is sacred to the culture.
2. I wouldn’t appropriate or feel inspired by anything that I don’t understand.
When the No Doubt fan phase was out of control and Gwen Stefani had that bindi in between her eyes, girls started wearing bindi stickers on their foreheads in school even though they had no idea what the significance of it was.
3. I don’t really mind it when people use items like cheongsams (Chinese dresses) or Saris (Indian dresses), or take inspiration from the culture. But to literally wear the costume is another ballgame.
Something has to change for me — it cannot be the exact replica, but maybe a DETAIL from the dresses can be taken such as the hook up by the neck for the cheongsam and the colours & beading on a sari.
As Sheena said, don’t make it a gimmick to sell your clothes or jump on the bandwagon.
4. I don’t particularly like anything very racially sensitive such as blackface. It brings up a lot of hurt, hatred and resentment. Why would anyone do that, even just to make a political statement or cause trouble? I know it’s controversial but that is going too far. It becomes less about the clothes and more about the ideology, which is nice.. but make your demonstration in a different, more diplomatic way.
Awesome posts. Great food for thought!
.-= FB @ FabulouslyBroke.com´s last blog ..January 2010 Budget Roundup =-.
[...] Bonne Vie – Cultural Appropriation vs Cultural Inspiration: What you borrow from another culture when it comes to wardrobe should be thoughtful [...]
[...] Bonne Vie – Cultural Appropriation vs Cultural Inspiration: What you borrow from another culture when it comes to wardrobe should be thoughtful [...]
[...] Bonne Vie – Cultural Appropriation vs Cultural Inspiration: What you borrow from another culture when it comes to wardrobe should be thoughtful [...]
[...] Bonne Vie – Cultural Appropriation vs Cultural Inspiration: What you borrow from another culture when it comes to wardrobe should be thoughtful [...]
[...] *a great post on cultural appropriation and a nuanced understanding of inspiration from Bonne Vie [...]
[...] Bonne Vie – Cultural Appropriation vs Cultural Inspiration: What you borrow from another culture when it comes to wardrobe should be thoughtful [...]
[...] Bonne Vie – Cultural Appropriation vs Cultural Inspiration: What you borrow from another culture when it comes to wardrobe should be thoughtful [...]
[...] Bonne Vie – Cultural Appropriation vs Cultural Inspiration: What you borrow from another culture when it comes to wardrobe should be thoughtful [...]
[...] Bonne Vie – Cultural Appropriation vs Cultural Inspiration: What you borrow from another culture when it comes to wardrobe should be thoughtful [...]
[...] Bonne Vie – Cultural Appropriation vs Cultural Inspiration: What you borrow from another culture when it comes to wardrobe should be thoughtful [...]
[...] Bonne Vie – Cultural Appropriation vs Cultural Inspiration: What you borrow from another culture when it comes to wardrobe should be thoughtful [...]
[...] Bonne Vie – Cultural Appropriation vs Cultural Inspiration [...]
[...] Bonne Vie – Cultural Appropriation vs Cultural Inspiration: What you borrow from another culture when it comes to wardrobe should be thoughtful [...]
“sacred woman-centric power practice” and there you have it, something that irks me about bellydance in the Western world. That’s appropriation right there where Western women are led into the ‘exotic’ world of bellydance where they get to do sacred things like dance for their inner goddess to emulate ‘sacred temple dances’ or whatever woo-woo sounding hype. I’m a man, I bellydance not for performance or workout sure, but I do dance socially and I know quite a number who do too. Western dancers sometimes lump the ‘cane dance’ under bellydance and just use it as a prop to spice up their routine but forget that it is a dance that is predominately done by men among men.
Fact, Egyptian women don’t necessarily bare their bellies when they dance even when in an all-women party so all the woo-woo surrounding loving your body enough to bare your belly during a routine is completely full of poop. So what if there are bellydance workouts? The only form of exercise that my mother and aunts do is bellydance because they can’t stand the gym and mindless prancing about of aerobic dance routines.
When it comes to fashion, why can’t you be inspired by the items used and the colour scheme as opposed to adopting it all wholesale that it’s almost right away recognised as a Voodoo Queen thing or whatever? That is appropriation. If one were to be inspired by the rich colours of a sari and incorporate that into a piece of clothing that looks nothing like traditional Indian clothes, that’s fine. If you’re sending a model down the runway complete with bindis and peacock feather accessories and henna tattoos with the name of the show being “The Queens of India” along with some Indian-sounding music though it’s likely to be from another part of the world, THAT is appropriation.
@Alex – your comment is interesting, because I’ve taken bellydance classes and it wasn’t some sort of “woo-woo” bare belly women-centric practice, as you put it. It was more about learning your inner and outer dimension and how to control your body. The fact that you learn to control other parts of your life is merely a byproduct of learning how to control your body. That said, I didn’t wear gauzy little outfits and bare my midsection – we wore coin belts because you can hear the movement and we wore regular workout clothes. I think it’s less about baring a paunch and loving your body, and more about learning how to effectively isolate and use parts of your body.
As for the Fashion appropriation that we were talking about in the Voodoo Queen way, I have a bird skull from Talonalia that I incorporate into outfits, I love little baubles and clutter anyhow. I love the bright color schemes, but I don’t necessarily put them all together, slap on some blackface and head to work. I like the idea of mischief-magic, and I do note that a lot of the beliefs are rooted in the power of good things that come into your life which is what much of the Vodun belief is based on. There are certain forces that bring things into your life. Excellent. That’s not necessarily appropriation – it’s inspiration. I think I could wear a draped skirt in a sari-like fashion and if I wore it in an ethnically responsible way (as in, not wearing full sari, or some sacred pattern that’s used only in a ceremonial light) it would be more inspired and less appropriated.
[...] Bonne Vie – Cultural Appropriation vs Cultural Inspiration: What you borrow from another culture when it comes to wardrobe should be thoughtful [...]
[...] Bonne Vie – Cultural Appropriation vs Cultural Inspiration: What you borrow from another culture when it comes to wardrobe should be thoughtful [...]
[...] of Wicked Whimsy and I had this conversation a few months back and everything I read on this affirms our stance that when you’re going to [...]
[...] of Wicked Whimsy and I had this conversation a few months back and we affirmed our stance that when you’re going to borrow [...]
[...] Bonne Vie – Cultural Appropriation vs Cultural Inspiration: What you borrow from another culture when it comes to wardrobe should be thoughtful [...]
[...] post & the one on Birdie’s blog are a dual effort and meant to be read together, so go check out her’s too!) Via himitsuhana [...]
Love the art, Norse Shaman for the win haha! But yeah, Fashion inspiration can come from anything…although, sometimes it shouldn’t haha. But I completely think that if you find something that hits you, and says this could work, should be tried, if you don’t try you can’t fail, but you can’t succeed.
I find some of the new styles hard to understand, and so much of the styles by young people is dark and dreary, not happy and colorfull. However, I think using history to come up with new designs is really special. Sometimes things fromt he past are better than what we have today. Just my hunble opinion.