I just read the most bomb-of-bomb posts at Threadbared about the whole feather headdress hipster appropriation that’s happening in fashion right now. It’s definitely interesting to me, coming from a native background – a good portion of my dad’s maternal family lives on the “rez”. Now, don’t get me wrong here – I feel I can view everyone with the same set of eyes – as in this purple person is no different from that polka dotted person over there, who’s no better or worse than me. I believe in treating everyone as equals with the utmost respect, no matter their cultural background. What I do have a problem with is using and thereby desecrating important cultural symbols because you want to be *super hip!*

Image from "My culture is not a trend" on Tumblr - the girl on the right? guh! *shudders*
Michelle of Wicked Whimsy and I had this conversation a few months back and we affirmed our stance that when you’re going to borrow “looks” you should at least know what you’re borrowing – know why your look is significant to a culture, so that you can respectfully represent that people/symbol/culture. Know that there are things that would totally piss people off if you just wore it around like nobody’s business.
So what does that mean when it comes to headdresses? (I love this image because it displays the significant item with such taste – it’s about the item, not the human figure wearing it.)

From My Culture is Not a Trend
This? This is the first thing you think of when talking about feather headdresses. This is a War Bonnet. Stop and think for a minute about the implications of that name…
From Native Languages.org:
Warbonnets (or war bonnets) are the impressive feather headdresses commonly seen in Western movies and TV shows. Although warbonnets are the best-known type of Indian headdress today, they were actually only worn by a dozen or so Indian tribes in the Great Plains region […]
Warbonnets were important ceremonial regalia worn only by chiefs and warriors. Also, only men wore warbonnets. (Women sometimes went to war in some Plains Indian tribes, and there were even some female chiefs, but they never wore these masculine headdresses.)
In the 1800′s, Native American men from other tribes sometimes began to wear Plains-style warbonnets. Partially this was because of the American tourist industry, which expected Native Americans to look a certain way. Partially it was because many Native American tribes were forced to move to Oklahoma and other Indian territories during this time in history, so tribes that used to live far apart began adopting customs from their new neighbors. In most cases, the feather warbonnet did not have the same significance among the new tribes that adopted it. For them, it was a matter of fashion or a general symbol of authority. But for the Plains Indian tribes, feather warbonnets were a sacred display of a man’s honor and courage, and each feather told a story. Eagle feathers are still sometimes awarded to Plains Indians who serve in the military or do other brave deeds today.
Did you earn the feathers in your headdress? I know that’s a loaded question to ask, but did you think of that when you purchased that little sweatshop-made gem at Urban Outfitters (of all places)? And as Michelle noted: “…as far as “ceremonial” items go, not all Natives even have access to these cultural relics any more, due to the poverty within the community. This makes it especially douchey for UO to do cheap, appropriating knock offs.” I concur! And Michelle brought to mind a good point from the Threadbared article:
“So while it’s great that you can walk around feeling like hot shit in your feathered headband, there are many Native Americans still too ashamed or afraid to even discuss their ethnicities or cultures with their children. “
On a contrary note, I have respect for the girl who builds her headdress herself – and I wonder if that’s just being contradictory. The Warbonnet clearly irks me… but can I really blame the girl who makes her own feather headband? Hell, I enjoy sticking a feather or two in my hair and heading out to a party. And are feathers in your hair only representative of indigenous people? I think using the headdress that looks like a warbonnet – with dipped feathers and all – for all intents and purposes is appropriating something that’s culturally significant. Pairing it with warpaint is incredibly more ridiculous (I’m talking to you, girls who dress like this for their Myspace pictures)!

From My Culture is Not a Trend
When you look at the meaning there:
The Indian headband is also well-known from movies and other popular images of Native Americans. However, this style of headband was typically only used by a few tribes of the northeast Woodlands. Usually the headband consisted of a finger-woven or beaded deerskin strip with tribal designs on it. This band was then tied around the brow with a feather or two tucked through the back. Not only eagle feathers but turkey, hawk, egret, and crane feathers were also used for Woodland Indian headbands.
Unlike many of the Native American headdresses… both men and women wore headbands, which were not associated with war. The number and type of feather did not usually have special symbolic meaning, though in a few tribes that bordered the Plains eagle feathers were reserved for warriors. For the most part, Woodland Indian head bands were worn for their beauty, and were often decorated with intricate patterns, wampum, beads, and quillwork.
Here, you’re not taking the honor that you may not have earned and turning it into your next hipster party gag. And where do we draw the line between honoring a culture and oppressing them? As Ashe Mischief pondered: “and in theory, if I wore one, albeit a sparkly one, how do we know I’m not saying, I’m a modern leader among my tribe?” To make one yourself – using colors and decor significant to your human experience – is that truly taboo? In my opinion, if you make yourself a headband to wear feathers in your hair, you’ve earned it (though I still advise against using the warbonnet as a point of cultural significance – I don’t dress like Geisha for shits and giggles, or an evening out and I definitely don’t wear a Ganesha mask to dress-up parties) – but I think that if you didn’t bead that shit yourself (therefore putting your own cultural story into it), or obtain it from someone who made it as cultural memorabilia to celebrate their heritage, stealing cultural symbols is basically as taboo as buying counterfeit bags and slanging them as the real thing. We all know it’s cooler to DIY anyhow.
Michelle says:
I found extending appropriation to some items a little odd. In a few posts about appropriation I’ve seen it extended to items like bone jewelry, which presents a bit of a conundrum for me…
Something like bone jewelry has existed in a huge variety of cultures over the years, not all of them Native American. Wearing bone or other bits of animals (for lack of a better term!) has a long history …
As the above, previously referenced commenter put it:
“Dressing up as “a Native American” furthers the already popular notion that they aren’t real, diverse, complex human beings.”
I remember a conversation with my dad about the Atlanta Braves – he didn’t see the name as an issue because the team played well and wanted to show their honor and proud, fighting-spirit. Where does that differ from wearing a headband with a feather in it? A warbonnet? Does the meaning of the item/word/idea have relevance in making that distinction between appropriate and culturally insensitive It seems as if we’re picking and choosing – but it comes down to not picking and choosing. Lumping all these unique cultures into one denies their uniqueness. Dressing with influence from indigenous people is different than dressing like a “Native American”. Pairing war paint with that pretty feathered headband tells me you don’t know your ass from the cultural history of your country. It’s hard to know whether or not you understand the significance of what you’re wearing unless you show up looking like a Drugstore Indian (and for the life of me, I can’t find you a good image. I’ll take a picture of the one on the ave, posthaste). Your stereotypes are often obvious.
Where warbonnets – the headdress you picture when you think “TV Indians” – were important symbols, feather headbands were worn because they were pretty. Think about it – just consider the reason that thing you want exists. Whether it’s your red Doc Martens, your feather headdress or any other culturally borrowed item.